I write this sitting on the floor in Addis Ababa airport. My flight to Istanbul, from which I’ll go on to London, is at 01.50. Check-in won’t open until perhaps 22.00 or 23.00, and all the food and shops and bars in the airport are on the other side of security. So I’m stuck here… Continue reading Day 15: Addis Ababa airport
The second full day I had in Aksum was reserved for a rock-hewn church in the Tigray region. A distant relative, Philip Marsden, recommended Gheraltra above almost anything else in the country, and I was going there no matter what. I found that Abuna Yemata (hakuna matata) was considered to be the finest example, and… Continue reading Day 12: Abuna Yemata Guh Church: A World Apart
I had spent two and a half days in Lalibela before I left to fly to Aksum. Alebe greeted me in my hotel that morning, chatted to me about my itinerary and hopes, and accompanied me in the bajaj (rickshaw) to the airport. We talked again about African massages on the way when we drove… Continue reading Days 10-13: Aksum: Hot, Hassly and Disappointing
When in South America I made the distinction between dead days — days where you have to spend the day on transport or in waiting rooms — and dog days, where you consciously don’t do or see anything because you don’t have the energy or spoons. I can’t remember why I called it a dog… Continue reading Day 13 of 16 – A Travelling Day
On my first night in Addis Ababa, I ate at the restaurant adjoining the Makush Gallery. The food was mediocre but the artwork surrounding me as I ate was spectacular. Here are some of my favourites.
As always, it’s rarely the Big Sights or Attractions, but the minutiae of the experience and learning how people live and interact that really get my travelling juices flowing when I’m away. Here are some of the things I’ve learnt. To me, suddenly gasping — as I would if I saw a baby about to… Continue reading Things I’ve noticed about Ethiopian culture
I was quite overwhelmed and tense in Addis Ababa, and was worried that if this was Ethiopia, I’d not have a good time. I’d already emotionally written off the day I went to Bahar Dar — my second — because it was due to start with a 04.30, ten-hour bus, and I’d assumed I’d be… Continue reading Bahar Dar