Life

Day 15: Addis Ababa airport

I write this sitting on the floor in Addis Ababa airport. My flight to Istanbul, from which I’ll go on to London, is at 01.50. Check-in won’t open until perhaps 22.00 or 23.00, and all the food and shops and bars in the airport are on the other side of security. So I’m stuck here… Continue reading Day 15: Addis Ababa airport

Ethiopia 2018

The Holy Trinity

As I wrote when I was in South America, knowing some of the local language can have a transformative effect on how you get around and the way you are treated. When I went there (to Paraguay, Peru and Bolivia) I used Duolingo beforehand and, so my head was full of colours and animal names… Continue reading The Holy Trinity

Life

Day 12: Abuna Yemata Guh Church: A World Apart

The second full day I had in Aksum was reserved for a rock-hewn church in the Tigray region. A distant relative, Philip Marsden, recommended Gheraltra above almost anything else in the country, and I was going there no matter what. I found that Abuna Yemata (hakuna matata) was considered to be the finest example, and… Continue reading Day 12: Abuna Yemata Guh Church: A World Apart

Life

Days 10-13: Aksum: Hot, Hassly and Disappointing

I had spent two and a half days in Lalibela before I left to fly to Aksum. Alebe greeted me in my hotel that morning, chatted to me about my itinerary and hopes, and accompanied me in the bajaj (rickshaw) to the airport. We talked again about African massages on the way when we drove… Continue reading Days 10-13: Aksum: Hot, Hassly and Disappointing

Life

Day 13 of 16 – A Travelling Day

When in South America I made the distinction between dead days — days where you have to spend the day on transport or in waiting rooms — and dog days, where you consciously don’t do or see anything because you don’t have the energy or spoons. I can’t remember why I called it a dog… Continue reading Day 13 of 16 – A Travelling Day

Ethiopia 2018

Day 3: Lake Tana and its Churches

My visit to the churches of Lake Tana, just north of Bahar Dar, only lasted six hours and led to the visit of two different buildings of the promised five. But nonetheless, it was some of the most peaceful and atmospheric time of my whole trip. Once I managed to tune out the buzz of… Continue reading Day 3: Lake Tana and its Churches