As I wrote when I was in South America, knowing some of the local language can have a transformative effect on how you get around and the way you are treated. When I went there (to Paraguay, Peru and Bolivia) I used Duolingo beforehand and, so my head was full of colours and animal names… Continue reading The Holy Trinity
The second full day I had in Aksum was reserved for a rock-hewn church in the Tigray region. A distant relative, Philip Marsden, recommended Gheraltra above almost anything else in the country, and I was going there no matter what. I found that Abuna Yemata (hakuna matata) was considered to be the finest example, and… Continue reading Day 12: Abuna Yemata Guh Church: A World Apart
I had spent two and a half days in Lalibela before I left to fly to Aksum. Alebe greeted me in my hotel that morning, chatted to me about my itinerary and hopes, and accompanied me in the bajaj (rickshaw) to the airport. We talked again about African massages on the way when we drove… Continue reading Days 10-13: Aksum: Hot, Hassly and Disappointing
When in South America I made the distinction between dead days — days where you have to spend the day on transport or in waiting rooms — and dog days, where you consciously don’t do or see anything because you don’t have the energy or spoons. I can’t remember why I called it a dog… Continue reading Day 13 of 16 – A Travelling Day
My visit to the churches of Lake Tana, just north of Bahar Dar, only lasted six hours and led to the visit of two different buildings of the promised five. But nonetheless, it was some of the most peaceful and atmospheric time of my whole trip. Once I managed to tune out the buzz of… Continue reading Day 3: Lake Tana and its Churches
On my first night in Addis Ababa, I ate at the restaurant adjoining the Makush Gallery. The food was mediocre but the artwork surrounding me as I ate was spectacular. Here are some of my favourites.
As always, it’s rarely the Big Sights or Attractions, but the minutiae of the experience and learning how people live and interact that really get my travelling juices flowing when I’m away. Here are some of the things I’ve learnt. To me, suddenly gasping — as I would if I saw a baby about to… Continue reading Things I’ve noticed about Ethiopian culture