Ethiopia 2018

Day 3: Lake Tana and its Churches

My visit to the churches of Lake Tana, just north of Bahar Dar, only lasted six hours and led to the visit of two different buildings of the promised five. But nonetheless, it was some of the most peaceful and atmospheric time of my whole trip. Once I managed to tune out the buzz of… Continue reading Day 3: Lake Tana and its Churches


Things I’ve noticed about Ethiopian culture

As always, it’s rarely the Big Sights or Attractions, but the minutiae of the experience and learning how people live and interact that really get my travelling juices flowing when I’m away. Here are some of the things I’ve learnt. To me, suddenly gasping — as I would if I saw a baby about to… Continue reading Things I’ve noticed about Ethiopian culture


Addis Ababa: So Far So Good?

I write this completely alone in a restaurant adjoining an art gallery. I am surrounded by gorgeous, colourful paintings — mostly of stunning Ethiopian women. A man just turned on a playlist which is booming a soft, funky song over the speakers. Just that one song. I don’t know if you know the feeling where… Continue reading Addis Ababa: So Far So Good?


Ethiopian food diary: day 2

Today (12 Feb) I went from Addis Ababa to Bahir Dar — a ten-hour bus journey that will fortunately be my only one. Breakfast A croissant made without butter. Not the one — but it was free and it came with a bottle of water. Lunch Injera and veg. Shared with two Belgian white girls… Continue reading Ethiopian food diary: day 2


A Load of Cobblers

Ethiopia is like many places in having an overwhelming amount of stuff for sale right on the street — mostly bric-a-brac, belts, and sunglasses. But one thing that is everywhere is shoe-cleaners. Seriously — any big square or wide street and there are dozens of them. It makes me wonder how they all make a… Continue reading A Load of Cobblers